🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.